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BUXTON (SPA TOWN)
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What's up Doc? A Long Time Ago What's Left Today on our Doorstep Solomon's Temple Poole's Cavern Leisure Links |
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Before you visit Buxton and our hotel in the Peak District, here's a bit of a history lesson...pay attention now!
What's up Doc?
The custom of attending on watering places, as they are called, is often attributed to fashion, and has been exposed in severe terms, as an improper desertion of business and family affairs. In some instances this may be the case, and in such it deserves to be reprobated in the strongest language. In general, however, many and great allowances are to be made for these excursions. Dr Jos Denman MD 1801
| Excavations in the 1980s have shown the earliest settlement known in Buxton dates to the late Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) period about 5300 BC. Occupation at some time during the Neolithic or New Stone Age period (3500-1800 BC) is also evident. Many examples of Neolithic burial tombs in the form of barrows and the henges at Abor Low and Bull Ring remain. Research has identified later stone circles and barrows (tombs) - visible around Stanton Moor and elsewhere. These associate Buxton with habitation from the Beaker and Bronze Ages through to the Iron Age. Such Iron Age dwellers are known as the Celts and they certainly knew of and used the warm springs and probably even worshipped there as the later Roman naming suggests. Evidence of Iron Age settlement can be seen in the hill forts at Castle Naze and Mam Tor. |
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The earliest firm evidence of the existence of baths using the thermal waters goes right back to the early centuries of the Christian era when the Romans occupied Britain. In fact the springs of natural mineral water emerging at 82 degrees Fahrenheit so impressed the Romans that they named the town Aquae Arnemetiae which translates as 'waters at the sacred grove of the Goddess Arnemetiae' who was a minor Celtic deity further strengthening the belief that the Celts had a shrine in Buxton. That they held the town in high esteem is clear as the term 'Aquae' was only conferred on one other town, Bath (Aquae Sulis). The Romans departed Britain in about 410 AD and following its importance as a Roman Spa Buxton sank into insignificance for a thousand years or more.
The district became a Royal Forest, the King's deer congregating during winter for shelter in the Buxton basin where they drank from the warm springs. The male deer (bucks) are to this day remembered in the name Buxton and one of them can be seen on the town's coat-of-arms. Also represented are eight warm springs (8 circles) with the snake coiled around the staff symbolic of healing. The actual origin of the name Buxton can be dated to about 1100 when Buc(k)stanes (though Buchestanes was also known from 1108) is first recorded on a foundation charter for land given by William Peveril to found Lenton Abbey in Nottinghamshire. It cannot be stated with certainty how these names came about - one suggestion is bucc (as in deer) and stan meaning stones or Bug-stan meaning rocking stones. The earliest written evidence of a well at Buxton occurs around 1460 when William Worcester wrote an 'itinerarium' of places visited and included a description of Buxton's waters as follows: '… makes many miracles making the infirm healthy and in winter it is warm, even as honeyed milk…'
The 1,000 year anonymity ended in the 16th century by which time Buxton had become a place of pilgrimage, where people travelled to take the waters at this "place of many miracles". A 1536 valuation of a holy well at Buxton taken for Henry VIII recorded a value of 40 marks (about £26), a not inconsiderable sum. The well and chapel, which were the property of the church, did not escape the attentions of Thomas Cromwell, the Chief Minister to King Henry, and on his orders it was plundered and closed down by Sir William Bassett of Langley in 1538 as part of the dissolution of the monasteries.
The former religious properties in Buxton were acquired by Sir William Cavendish (the Cavendishes later became the Dukes of Devonshire in the 18th century) and St Anne's Well reopened shortly after the closure and in the Elizabethan era Buxton enjoyed considerable fame as a spa. Mary Queen of Scots visited to take the waters on several occasions during the time she was prisoner in England. In 1572 Dr John Jones wrote the first medical book on Buxton waters entitled The Benefit of the Auncient Bathes of Buckstones, which cureth most grievous sickness, never before published'. Many others then wrote on the curative values of the waters and Buxton continued to develop as a spa throughout the 17th century.
During the 18th century the 5th Duke of Devonshire financed the building of the Crescent (1784-1788), to include a hotel, modelled on the Royal Bath Crescent. The construction followed the design of John Carr of York and involved felling a fine grove of trees and culverting the river Wye, which disappears under the road near to the main entrance of the present Gardens.
At the same time (1785) Carr built the Great Stables at the rear of the Crescent for the hotel patrons. There was space for 110 horses plus accommodation for grooms and stable boys along with a central exercise court.
Though the Crescent was built to rival that at Bath and with a view to improving the town's attractiveness Buxton was populated by less than 1,000 in 1820 and still possessed modest facilities overall. Buxton's real growth came under the Victorians when its population tripled between 1840-1891 and new hot baths, pump rooms, hotels and churches were added. The most significant development though was that undertaken by The Buxton Improvements Company.
Formed in 1869 the company's objects were 'to add to the attractions and increase the prosperity of Buxton'. The Company proposed providing enclosed gardens, a covered promenade and a hall for amusements and recreations, the whole to be surrounded by ornamental and well-kept gardens and pleasure grounds
With the 7th Duke of Devonshire subscribing half of the required capital and donating nine acres of land to the Company the Pavilion Gardens were conceived. Started in 1871 the Pavilion was in use from August of that year and the Gardens continued to be enhanced. Landscaping was carried out by Edward Milner of Sydenham (he also designed the Pavilion). The Concert Hall (now the Octagon Hall) was added to the Gardens in 1876, being the creation of the Victorian architect Robert Rippon Duke. |
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The hall's fine dome was no doubt a prototype for his much bigger version later added to the Royal Devonshire Hospital. Many large residences, including those on Broad Walk (1859-66), were built as well roads, walkways and drainage facilities.
In 1858 two thirds of the Great Stables behind the Cresecent were donated as a hospital for the ‘sick poor’ of Buxton by the sixth Duke and 1859 saw these being converted to the Devonshire Hospital. The building had a circular courtyard with a colonnade supported by large Tuscan columns where horses were exercised during its former use. In 1881, the courtyard was covered by a slate dome designed by Robert Rippon Duke. |
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At that time it was the largest unsupported dome in the world, weighing 560 tons and spanning 145ft across its diameter and represented an architectural triumph for Rippon. When completed the dome was found to deviate by no more than 1/8th of an inch - a tribute to the precise plans of Rippon whose personal notebook records the total cost of the dome as £4,276 13s 6d (£4,276.68p).
The arrival of the railways in 1863 was extremely significant as a communication link now existed between Buxton's available spa treatment and potential clientele. Two lines were opened (both on the same day); Matlock to Buxton (The Midland Railway Company) and Whaley Bridge to Buxton (Stockport, Disley and Whaley Bridge Company who were mainly owned by the LNWR). The two stations were opposite each other and similar in external design. The impact was immediate with 30,000 day trippers being carried by rail to the 1863 Wells Dressings. A viaduct was built in 1891/2 to carry the LNWR southern extension line to Ashbourne.
By 1900 electricity had come to the town and was installed in the Pavilion Gardens and Concert Hall (Octagon). The National Telephone Company provided a service for a number of the hotels and businesses. In 1901 the Gardens Company commissioned a new theatre and the result was the Opera House which opened in 1903. Designed by the renowned theatrical architect Frank Matcham it was built at a cost of £25,000. Refurbishment took place in 1979 beginning in January during the worst winter for 30 years. Despite snow until May the half million pound restoration was completed on time just as the snow melted (see Buxton Opera House below)
The central part of the Pavilion in the Gardens caught fire in 1983. The lounge, bar kitchens and restaurant were destroyed but fortunately the fire was prevented from reaching the Opera House. The Pavilion was rebuilt in 1984.
Though Roman bricks, tiles and coins have been found unfortunately the remains of the ancient baths have all been destroyed.
The LNWR (train) station (8 min walk) is still operational with some of the original structure remaining - the fan-windowed façade is worth a peek. The Midland Railway Co station was demolished some time ago but there is always some talk of reopening the line to Matlock. Tittle Tattle lost the Battle more like. The viaduct also remains though its use is limited to transport of limestone.
The Crescent (7 min) was externally restored a few years though it lies empty still awaiting final approval for its proposed redevelopment as a Spa Hotel complex. Opposite is the latest Pump Room built in 1894. A new free access well was added, also in 1894, and sited next to the Pump Room. In 1940 the present free St Anne's Well was built a little further along from the 1894 one which it replaced. It is inscribed 'well of living waters' and allows for the sampling of Buxton natural mineral water. The Pump Room ceased to serve thermal water in 1981 and is currently only used for the occasional exhibition.
| Externally restored a few years, it lies empty still awaiting approval for its proposed redevelopment as a Spa Hotel complex. Opposite is the latest Pump Room built in 1894. A new free access well was added, also in 1894, and sited next to the Pump Room. In 1940 the present free St Anne's Well was built a little further along from the 1894 one which it replaced. It is inscribed 'well of living waters' and allows for the sampling of Buxton Water. The Pump Room ceased to serve thermal water in 1981 and is currently only used for the occasional exhibition. |  |
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Opposite St Ann's Well (right) is The Tourist Information Centre (TIC) housed in the former Natural Baths which closed in November 1972. Their last use had been for public swimming but following the opening of the spa pool in the Pavilion Gardens in 1972 they closed. Beneath the TIC is the source of the Buxton Water and it is possible to view this from the entrance hall of the TIC. It is from this point, the main spring, that water is taken for bottling purposes and to supply St Anne's well across the road. Within the same room is housed an underground tank which holds the water prior to being pumped to the spa water swimming pool at the Pavilion Gardens and the Devonshire Royal Hospital. The small fountain in front of the Crescent is also fed from this tank and the remaining unused water fed into the river Wye as required by the National Rivers' Authority. |
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The Hot (Thermal) Baths (located next to the Crescent) Built in approximately 1820 the facilities were elegant and included vaopour and shower baths as well (not Mira presumably). The Hot Baths were totally rebuilt during 1852/53 and were largely enveloped in an iron and glass structure with a frontal colonade. Later alterations followed in the late 19th/early 20th centuries. The Hot Baths operated in conjunction with the nearby Natural Baths (now the TIC) and included douching, massage, friction and exercise.
The baths closed on 30 September 1963 following a steady decline
in the number of treatments from the mid 1950s and the colonade over the Crescent side entrance was removed. The remainder of the NE side was restored by the local ratepayers (aka HP Boro' Council) in 1975.
In 1985/86 the Hot Baths building, which had deteriorated markedly after its closure, was converted into the Cavendish Arcade shopping centre. The baths' heritage was preserved by retaining a small plunge bath within the complex as well as the original tiling. The completed arcade was topped with a 3,000 sq ft barrel-vaulted stained glass roof, again worth viewing - 'twas the largest single stained glass window in the UK at that time.
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The Pavilion Gardens (2 min)
| The subject of a 5 yr, £4.4M major renovation project completed in 2001/02. The bandstand, lake, kiddies play area n other buildings have been restored plus new miniature railway. Broad Walk, with its period-style iron railings & street lamps was originally known as Cavendish Terrace - it became one of Buxton's most fashionable Victorian thoroughfares for reasons which can still be appreciated today.) |  |
| The bandstand was constructed and opened in 1997 and is known as The Don Redfern Bandstand. in memory of the aforesaid (a conductor, player and promoter of brass).The Bandstand is used almost every Sunday in the in the Summer, with brass bands playing during the afternoon.
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The Devonshire Royal Hospital/Devonshire Campus (5 min)
Closed in July 2000 after more than 150 years of offering specialist treatment, it is now known as Devonshire Campus n forms part of the University of Derby. The grade II listed building boasts a cupola (dome) which is the second largest unsupported dome in Europe (bigger than St Paul's Cathedral and St Peter's in Rome). Work to restore the former Royal Devonshire Hospital took over 5 years to complete with £6 million in grants from the Heritage Lottery Fund. A further £2.6 million came from the Learning Skills Council, with £1.5 million from HEFCE and £1 million from the Single Regeneration Budget Programme of the East Midlands’ Development Agency (EMDA). The Devonshire Campus was officially opened 10 February 2006 by Their Royal Highnesses Prince Charles & Camilla - no carbunkle here then! In the vast central space beneath the domed ceiling of the Devonshire Campus building there are cafés, shops, study space and plus recently added library facilities. |
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The Parish Church of St John (1811) |
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| With its fine open plan interior is a couple of minutes away. A sexy looking building, especially when floodlit at night - no excuse not say yer prayers now!. Still on a religious note the oldest building is Buxton is possibly St Ann's Church (1625). |
Also worth a visit is The Museum and Art Gallery (see entry under Museums & Monument - Stuff to Visit page) and do sit on the Slopes for a few minutes, an area of parkland first laid out in 1818 to landscape the old St Ann's Cliff (completed 1840). The covered pavements known as The Colonnades are an attractive feature of the town centre and make window shopping a pleasant pursuit in all weathers.
An extract taken from the Buxton Advertiser (1900) suggests behaviour in the old days was not as rosy as
sometimes believed:
'Buxton arrangements are always so good and the officials so courteous that we are sure we only have
to mention a thing to find that it has received attention. Grinlow Tower, or Solomon's Temple, was erected
only a few years ago, but it has suffered grievously. There is not a particle of glass left in the windows,
and unless we are much mistaken, the behaviour of some of the excursionists is not exactly quite perfect.
We do not know whether the new practice of selling lemonade at the Tower is altogether a success. It leads
to a dawdling round the summit, with the proverbial result of the use found for idle hands. Another thing
we should like to see is to have the loose stones round the base of the Tower cleared away. They lend
materials for window smashing'.
Buxton Opera House (5 min walk) - EDITOR'S PICK (one of the best in the Country)
This grand Edwardian Opera House, a jewel in the crown of this part of the Derbyshire Peak District, was designed by Frank Matcham and built at a cost of £25,000. It was opened in 1903 with seating for 1250 people and sits at one end of the Pavilion Gardens. It really is one of the most ornate theatres in the country in terms of detail. Expect a spectacular auditorium complete with cherubim, exquisite ceiling
paintings and gold leaf decoration (and non grumpy volunteers, well most of them).
It ran as a successful theatre, receiving touring companies until 1927.
In 1927 the theatre was turned into a cinema. Silent films were shown at first and in 1932 the theatre was wired for sound and 'talkies' took over. The demand for live theatre persisted though, and Lillian Bayliss, a woman of immense energy and vision, and manager of The Old Vic, presented summer Festivals in Buxton in 1937 and 1939. Among the stars to delight Buxton audiences at this time were Sybil Thorndike, Lewis Casson, Robert Donat, Anthony Quayle, Robert Morley and Alec Guinness.
Although the Festivals continued during wartime, a loss of momentum resulted in the end of live theatre production. Throughout the late 1940s, 50s and 60s the Opera House operated solely as a cinema, with only local amateur theatre performances and the annual pantomimes providing any links to its illustrious past. In October 1976 the Opera House was closed and rumours circulated that it would never reopen. In 1979 however, a major restoration took place with people both from the local area and across the UK helping with the work. An orchestra pit was also added to the original Frank Matcham design which was otherwise largely unaltered since 1903. |
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In the early 1990s, it became apparent that more work was required in the theatre if it was to continue to serve the public into the next century so between October 1999 and June 2001 an extensive program of both internal and external restoration took place.
The theatre announced record attendances for a calendar year – 192,596 people attending Opera House performances or events during 2006, and Opera House Chairman, Michael Williams enthused about the future: “This audience figure represents a remarkable average of 529 people per day, which most other theatres or public facilities would find hard to match, especially in a semi-rural market town.
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In February 2007, another major refurbishment costing £359,000 was completed at the Opera House that saw the installation of air conditioning in the gallery and backstage area, new seats in the gallery and upper circle, the installation of a hydraulic scissor-lift to replace the ramp and new backstage working lights as well as re-wiring and painting the backstage area and dressing rooms and a host of other other improvements.
Almost nightly performances of opera, musicals, concerts and shows in splendid Victorian surroundings. Take a look around the Opera House.
Buxton Raceway 3m Apr - Nov (Sun & b/hols)
Tarmac Oval with many domestic formulas racing there as well as national formulas. Sounds like an interesting day out according to this. Bangers, hot-rods, demolition derbies, etc
Cinema - None locally. Stockport (45 min by direct train) or Chesterfield. Personal favourite is Bolton (1 hr drive/85 min by direct train) - all Cineworld venues.
Walks (local) - Pavilion Gardens (2 min), Serpentine Walks (1min), Grin Low Wood and Buxton Country Park (0.5 mile) which has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Also see Walking on Outdoor Stuff page. Also pavement directly o/s hotel, suitable for most footwear.
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